Up into the Western Ghats for a night at Spice Village – thatched bungalows set amidst the trees and shrubs with my husband’s favourite bar, Woods Bar, sitting amongst the trees. We have stayed many times before but it is always a treat to dump the cases and sit outside our
cosy hut enjoying a cup of tea to the sounds of the wind in the trees and the langur monkeys chattering in the distance. This is another great CGH Earth property, so different from bustling Brunton’s Boatyard and the village vibe of Visalam but still with the CGH Earth touch, emphasising sustainability with the design of the property modelled on the native Manan tribe from this region. The proximity of Lake Periyar means it is a great place to wildlife watch and there are daily cultural programmes.
A drink at Woods is a must, and a chat to Francis the keeper of the venerable snooker table to enliven proceedings and then a stroll around the small town before dinner – perfect!
The following day a morning trip to my friend Taj’s organic spice garden ensured that my larder is now stocked with the greenest cardamom, pepper corns, really good turmeric and some herbal remedies too – he is a font of knowledge and his products are fresh and fantastic. I have a copy of his book The Indian Aroma beside me now and if you are in the area his address is
The Planter’s House, Munnar Road, 1st Mile, Kumily, Thakady email theplantershouse@gmail.com
Photos Taj, left and our wonderful driver and friend Joshy. Our snug hut in the trees.
Well how about this for breathtaking scenery! Day 2 saw us driving up and up – and up- to Munnar weaving our way through the tea plantations. The scenery was simply stunning and served to distract us from precipitous drops and hair pin bends, along with the usual extra excitement of Indian bus drivers- a unique breed who seem to specialise in roaring up behind the vehicle in front honking wildly and lurching in and out until overtaking becomes even a vague possibility. How we love them as the disappear in a cloud of black smoke and noxious fumes! However arrival at our hotel dispelled all thoughts of crowded roads and noise. We were at The Spice Tree perched on the edge of the valley and a haven of peace and birdsong. Two days of doing not a lot restored our equilibrium and dispelled jet lag and sitting on the balcony with a cool breeze, the birds and the sound of temple music drifting up from the valley below was just a magical start to our travels.
